Japan’s most accessible mountain-onsen resort, with volcanic valleys, a ropeway over boiling mud pools, views of Mount Fuji, and ryokan at every price point.
Hakone sits in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, 90 minutes southwest of Tokyo, and is Japan’s most visited onsen destination. The combination of volcanic hot springs, a ropeway crossing the active Owakudani valley, views of Mount Fuji across Lake Ashi, and an outstanding range of ryokan makes it the best single overnight trip from Tokyo.
Day trip or overnight? Overnight. Soaking in an onsen as the sun sets and waking in a ryokan transforms Hakone into a genuinely memorable experience rather than a ticked box.
Getting to Hakone from Tokyo
- Odakyu Romancecar (recommended): Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, 85 minutes, 2,470 yen one way. Book seats in advance; they fill fast at weekends.
- JR to Odawara + Hakone Tozan: JR to Odawara (JR Pass valid), then Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto (25 minutes, not JR Pass).
Hakone Free Pass: From 6,500 yen for 2 days from Shinjuku. Covers the Romancecar, ropeway, cable car, lake cruise, and local buses. Buy at Shinjuku Odakyu counters or online.
Getting Around Hakone
The standard loop: Hakone Tozan Railway from Yumoto up to Gora, cable car to Sounzan, ropeway over Owakudani to Togendai, lake cruise to Hakone-machi, bus back to Yumoto. Around 4 to 5 hours, including stops. All covered by the Hakone Free Pass.
What to Do in Hakone
Hakone Ropeway and Owakudani
The most dramatic sight in Hakone is the sulphurous steam vents, boiling grey mud pools, and an otherworldly volcanic landscape. Black eggs (kuro-tamago) hard-boiled in sulfuric spring water are sold at Owakudani station. Fuji views from the ropeway are best in winter and early spring. Note: the Owakudani section is occasionally closed due to elevated volcanic activity. Check before visiting.
Lake Ashi Cruise
A 30 to 40-minute cruise connecting the ropeway terminus at Togendai to Hakone-machi. On clear days, the classic image of Fuji reflected in the lake is visible. Covered by the Hakone Free Pass.
Hakone Open-Air Museum
A large outdoor sculpture museum near Chokoku-no-Mori Station with works by Rodin, Picasso, and Henry Moore. Entry 1,600 yen, discounted for Free Pass holders. One of the best art museums in Japan, yet it is consistently underrated. Allow at least 2 hours.
Onsen
Hakone’s hot spring water is piped to ryokan and public baths throughout the area. For day visitors, Tenzan Tohji-kyo in Yumoto is a well-regarded public bath (1,300 yen, no tattoo restriction).
Where to Stay in Hakone
Budget (under 15,000 yen per person)
Hakone Tent: Popular guesthouse in Yumoto with dorm and private rooms, shared onsen, and English-speaking staff. From 4,000 to 6,000 yen per person.
Mid-range (15,000 to 35,000 yen per person, including meals)
Yaeikan: Well-reviewed traditional ryokan in the Yumoto area. Good for first-time ryokan visitors. See the Japan ryokan guide for what to expect.
Luxury (35,000 yen and above)
Gora Kadan: Former imperial villa turned luxury ryokan. Private rotenburo baths, exceptional kaiseki. From around 60,000 yen per person.
When to Visit Hakone
- Winter: Best Fuji views. Snow-capped Fuji is visible across the lake on clear mornings. Onsen is at its most atmospheric.
- Spring: Cherry blossoms around Yumoto. Busy around peak bloom.
- Summer: Fuji is frequently hidden by clouds. During the busiest period, book a ryokan well in advance.
- Autumn: Mountain foliage. Good Fuji visibility returning.
