Two hours from Tokyo, Nikko has Japan’s most ornate shrine complex, a mountain lake accessible via a winding road with 48 hairpin bends, and the finest autumn foliage within easy reach of the capital.
Nikko sits in Tochigi Prefecture in the mountains northwest of Tokyo. It was the chosen burial site of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Japan’s first shogun, and the subsequent Tosho-gu shrine built in his honour by his grandson used the labour of 15,000 craftsmen over two years to produce the most elaborately decorated wooden shrine complex in Japan. The surrounding mountains, waterfalls, and Lake Chuzenji add natural scenery that makes Nikko one of Tokyo’s most rewarding day trips.
Getting to Nikko
Tobu Nikko Line (Recommended)
- Departure: Asakusa Station (Tobu Asakusa Station, adjacent to the subway)
- Service: Tobu Limited Express Spacia or Revaty to Tobu Nikko Station
- Time: About 1 hour 50 minutes
- Cost: Around 2,920 yen one way, including a limited express supplement
- JR Pass: NOT covered. Tobu is a private railway.
The Tobu Limited Express is the most comfortable and direct option. Book the reserved seat at Asakusa Station or online.
JR Option
- Departure: Tokyo or Ueno Station by JR Tohoku Line to Utsunomiya (about 55 minutes by Shinkansen, JR Pass valid), then JR Nikko Line to Nikko Station (about 45 minutes, JR Pass valid)
- Total time: About 1 hour 45 minutes with good connections
- Cost: Around 5,500 yen by Shinkansen plus JR Nikko Line, or free for JR Pass holders plus Nikko Line fare
The JR route requires a connection at Utsunomiya and can be slower due to waiting time. JR Pass holders should calculate whether the Shinkansen to Utsunomiya makes this worthwhile versus the direct Tobu express.
Nikko World Heritage Sites
Tosho-gu Shrine
The burial shrine of Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543 to 1616) was completed in 1636 after two years of construction by 15,000 craftsmen. The level of decorative detail is extraordinary and unlike any other shrine in Japan: carved phoenixes, dragons, and tigers in vibrant polychrome on every surface, a three-story pagoda, and the sacred stable with the three wise monkeys (see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil) carved in the lintel. Entry to the full complex is 1,300 yen, plus 520 yen to enter the inner sanctuary.
Rinno-ji Temple
A large Buddhist temple complex adjacent to Tosho-gu with the Sanbutsudo Hall containing three gilded standing Buddha images, each 8 metres tall—entry fee 400 yen. The Shoyoen garden behind the main hall is one of Nikko’s finest traditional gardens.
Futarasan Shrine
The oldest shrine in Nikko (founded 767 AD) is dedicated to the three peaks of the Nikko mountain range. Entry is 200 yen. The surrounding cedar forest with trees up to 400 years old is deeply atmospheric.
Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls
The Irohazaka Winding Road ascends 1,200 metres via 48 hairpin bends from the lower Nikko area to Lake Chuzenji at an altitude of 1,269 metres. The lake and the surrounding mountains provide the autumn foliage scenery that makes Nikko famous in late October.
The Kegon Falls drop 97 metres from the lake’s outflow to the valley below. An elevator descends to the observation platform at the base of the falls (550 yen). The falls are most dramatic during the spring snowmelt and after heavy rainfall.
Take a Tobu or Nikko Kotsu bus from Tobu Nikko or JR Nikko stations to the lake (about 45 minutes, 1,150 yen). The No. 2 bus serves both the falls and the lake.
Best Time to Visit Nikko
- Autumn (late October to early November): The finest season. The Irohazaka road, lined with crimson maples and golden ginkgos,o is Japan’s most dramatic autumn drive. The lake and shrine complex is equally spectacular.
- Spring (late April to May): Azalea and cherry blossom on the lower mountain slopes.
- Winter (December to February): Snow-dusted shrine complex with almost no tourists. Dramatic and beautiful. Some bus services have been reduced.
- Summer: Mountain temperatures are 5 to 10 degrees cooler than Tokyo. Good for escaping the city heat.
Full Day vs Half Day
A half day covers Tosho-gu and the nearby shrines only. A full day adds the Irohazaka drive, Kegon Falls, and Lake Chuzenji. The full day requires leaving Tokyo by 8 am to return comfortably by 8 pm. See the Tokyo day trips guide for how Nikko compares to Kamakura and other options.
