Shinjuku is Tokyo’s most complex neighbourhood. The world’s busiest station, a government tower district, a red light district, one of Japan’s finest parks, and the most atmospheric evening drinking alleys in the city are all within walking distance.
Shinjuku splits into east and west at the station, and the two sides feel like different cities.West Shinjuku is corporate Tokyo: skyscrapers, government buildings, business hotels. East Shinjuku is where the city comes alive after dark: Kabukicho’s neon, Omoide Yokocho’s lanterns, Golden Gai’s bars, and the Shinjuku 3-chome community.
Getting to Shinjuku
- JR Yamanote Line: Shinjuku Station is the busiest station in the world by daily ridership. Connected to every major Tokyo area.
- From Narita Airport: N’EX direct to Shinjuku, 85 minutes, 3,070 yen (JR Pass valid). See the Narita to Shinjuku guide.
- From Haneda Airport: Keikyu Line to Shinagawa, then Yamanote to Shinjuku, about 45 minutes, around 630 yen. See the Haneda to Shinjuku guide.
West Shinjuku
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building
Free observation decks on the 45th floor of both towers, open until 10:30 pm (north tower) and until 7:30 pm most evenings (south tower). Views over the entire city and, on clear days, Mount Fuji to the southwest. Free entry. One of Tokyo’s finest free panoramic viewpoints. The north tower observation deck is particularly good after dark.
Shinjuku Station West Exit Area
The underground walkways beneath Nishi-Shinjuku connect the station to the skyscrapers and hotel towers of west Shinjuku. The Subnade underground mall and the elevated Takashimaya Times Square shopping complex on the south side of the station are good for rainy-day browsing and department store food halls.
East Shinjuku
Omoide Yokocho – Memory Lane
The alley immediately north of the JR station exit is one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric evening destinations. Around 24 small yakitori and ramen stalls under the railway tracks, each seating 5 to 8 people at a wooden counter facing a charcoal grill. Smoke, lanterns, grilled chicken skewers, beer, and the city noise muffled by the narrow alley. Best from 6 pm onward. Cash only at most stalls. Budget 2,000 to 4,000 yen for a full yakitori evening with drinks.
Golden Gai
A cluster of six narrow alleys with around 200 tiny bars, each seating 5 to 8 people maximum. Each bar has a distinct personality determined by its owner: jazz bars, manga bars, film bars, bars for specific sports teams, bars that play good music quietly. An evening in Golden Gai is one of Tokyo’s most unique experiences. A first drink costs 500 to 1,500 yen, plus a seating charge (table charge) of 500 to 1,000 yen, which is standard practice. Walk the alleys before choosing to look through the door, assess the atmosphere, and enter where it feels right.
Kabukicho
Tokyo’s red light and entertainment district is immediately north of Golden Gai. Dense with host clubs, karaoke, arcades, cinemas, and restaurants. The new Kabukicho Tower (2023) has multiple floors of restaurants and entertainment venues. Walking through Kabukicho on a Friday evening is a legitimate Tokyo experience. Touts outside the entertainment establishments will approach a simple shake of the head is sufficient.
Shinjuku 3-chome
The area around Shinjuku 3-chome Station is Tokyo’s LGBTQ district, with a high concentration of friendly bars, clubs, and restaurants. Welcome to all visitors. Particularly active on weekend evenings.
Shinjuku Gyoen
One of Tokyo’s finest parks: 58 hectares of traditional Japanese garden, French formal garden, and English landscape garden in the centre of the city. Cherry blossom season makes Shinjuku Gyoen the most refined blossom-viewing spot in Tokyo (alcohol is not permitted, unlike Ueno Park, which keeps the atmosphere more contemplative). Entry is 500 yen. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 4:30 pm (extended in cherry blossom season).
Where to Stay in Shinjuku
Shinjuku is the most practical base for a Tokyo visit. The station connects to every major area of the ci, ty and the Romancecar to Hakone departs from the Odakyu platform. Business hotels cluster on both the east and west sides. The Toyoko Inn and Dormy Inn chains have branches in Shinjuku priced at 7,000 to 12,000 yen per night for a clean private room. See the Tokyo hotels guide and the Tokyo neighbourhoods guide for the full picture.
