Gwangjang Market in Jongno is Seoul’s oldest covered market, operating since 1905. It is the city’s most celebrated street food destination and the most authentic traditional market experience in central Seoul. Here is what to eat and how to get there.
Gwangjang Market became internationally known after appearing in various food documentaries and travel programs, but it was a beloved Seoul institution for decades before that attention. The indoor food stalls under the covered market roof have been run by many of the same families for generations. Sitting down at a low table, ordering bindaetteok and makgeolli, and eating alongside Seoul office workers and market vendors is as genuine an experience as Seoul offers.
Getting to Gwangjang Market
The market is in the Jongno district in central Seoul, directly accessible from Jongno 5-ga Station on Line 1 (dark blue). Exit 8 leads directly to the market entrance. From central Seoul destinations:
- From Myeongdong: Take Line 4 south to Seoul Station, transfer to Line 1 and ride east to Jongno 5-ga. About 20 minutes total.
- From Hongdae: Take Line 2 east toward City Hall, transfer to Line 1 and ride to Jongno 5-ga about 35 minutes.
- From Insadong: Walk about 10 minutes east along Jongno-ro. Gwangjang Market is on the same avenue.
What to Eat at Gwangjang Market
Bindaetteok (빈대떡) – Mung Bean Pancake
The signature dish of Gwangjang Market. A thick, crispy pancake made from ground mung beans, studded with kimchi and sometimes pork. The pancakes are cooked on large griddles visible at eye level from the market aisle and served immediately. Best eaten hot off the griddle with a small cup of makgeolli (milky rice wine, 3,000 to 4,000 won). Budget 4,000 to 6,000 won per pancake. The stalls in the main food alley (on the left side when entering from the Jongno 5-ga entrance) feature multiple competing vendors. Any queue is worth joining.
Mayak Kimbap (마약 김밥) – Addiction Kimbap
Small bite-sized kimbap rolls (rice and vegetables wrapped in seaweed) served with a dipping sauce of soy, mustard, and sesame. The name means ‘drug kimbap,’ referring to their addictively good taste. Sold at the main kimbap stall near the market center for 2,000 to 3,000 won per plate. Best eaten immediately after purchase.
Yukhoe (육회) – Korean Beef Tartare
Thin strips of raw beef seasoned with soy, sesame, garlic, and pear, topped with a raw egg yolk. Gwangjang Market has some of the finest and most affordable yukhoe in Seoul, at stalls that have served the dish for decades. Around 8,00- 15,000 won per portion. Quality varies between stalls; look for the vendors with the longest queues of Korean customers.
Sundae (순대) – Korean Blood Sausage
A Seoul specialty: pig intestine filled with glass noodles, vegetables, and sometimes blood. Served with fish cake broth and salt or a dipping sauce. Robust, filling, and cheap at 3,000-5,000 won per portion. The sundae stalls are on the left aisle of the main food corridor.
When to Visit
The food stalls open around 8 am and serve through the evening, typically until 10 pm or later. The busiest and most atmospheric time is lunch (12 pm to 2 pm) when market workers and nearby office staff fill the stalls. Arriving just before noon guarantees a seat but means eating alongside the rush. Arriving at 10 am is quieter, and the griddles are freshest.
The market is open 7 days a week. Monday is the quietest day as some vendors take the day off. Weekend afternoons attract the most tourists,s but also the most variety in what is being prepared.
The Textile Market Above the Food Stalls
Gwangjang Market is not only a food market. The upper floors house one of Seoul’s largest textile and fabric wholesale markets with hundreds of stalls selling raw fabric, hanbok (traditional Korean clothing), and custom tailoring services. The fabric market is open during daytime hours and offers a different experience from the food halls below, serving as a working commercial market for Korean fashion businesses.
Practical tips for first-time visitors:
Gwangjang Market can feel overwhelming on a first visit. The main food alley (entering from the Jongno 5-ga Exit 8 side) runs the full length of the market under a covered roof. Stalls are on both sides with low tables and stools. You do not need to speak Korean to order: point to what you want, hold up your fingers for the quantity, and pay immediately in cash. Most food stalls at Gwangjang Market do not accept credit cards. Bring Korean won in small bills. The typical visit involves sitting at two or three different stalls for 1 to 2 hours. Budget around 15,000 to 25,000 won per person for a satisfying market meal covering bindaetteok, mayak kimbap, and makgeolli.
